The Edit | Part I: Paris Fashion Week

Paris Fashion Week ◆ Spring/Summer 2027

Nine houses, one sidewalk, and the trends I am calling before they reach the stores.

One thing about Paris Fashion Week is the street style. The collections are shown on streets backed by generations of heritage, and for nine days the houses that define fashion all answer to the same sidewalks. From the tiny adornments to the delicate details, the sets and the playlists, you are walking through what will soon be history.

The streets are magical in these moments, and this is where I forecast the next trends for the season. It all happens outside the venue. Watch the editors, the stylists, the creative directors and the models between shows and you can see what is coming.

This season the city ran warm, so the looks ran light: bare legs, tank tops, thin layers. And the best-dressed showgoers mixed runway pieces with thrift finds and vintage pulled from their mothers' and grandmothers' closets. That is the portfolio at work.

Nine houses told me the most, two of them under brand new designers. Here is what they showed and what I am forecasting from it.

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The Row

Minimalism packs a bag.

Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen still collect phones at the door, though this season the images arrived about a day later instead of several. What they showed on September 30 was the loosest collection the house has made: a Hippie Trail wardrobe. Tailored trousers with a tank top, a flowered belt and strings of beads. A striped sarong skirt with a white T-shirt. Madras and flower-patterned fabrics, crochet, fringe, and a dress built from layers of gold and white lace. Nearly every model walked in flip-flops, sandals or slides.

The detail I am watching is the beads. Delicate necklaces stacked one on top of the other and half hidden, under a sheer top or inside an open shirt. And the tailoring is narrow again: cigarette trousers and cinched jackets, the close cut of the late nineties. The bag to know is a plain canvas tote.

• Stack fine beaded necklaces and let the shirt cover half of them.
• One intricate top, plain trousers, a flat sandal. Let the handwork carry the look.
• Trade the slouchy suit for a narrow one. The late-nineties cut is already waiting in the archive.

Shop the echo: a crochet tank, a cigarette trouser, a canvas tote.

Loewe

One hundred eighty years old and dressed for summer.

Loewe turns 180 this year. Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez showed their third collection for the house on October 2 at the Château de Vincennes, and the idea was the old world meeting the new. Pale blue, yellow and mint against black and brown leather bombers. A long shirt-coat in caramel suede. Trench coats with holographic resin collars.

The craft was there, but quiet. Striped dresses and shirts in glass beads, made with Cécile Feilchenfeldt, a 2025 Loewe Foundation Craft Prize finalist. Leather skived so the color blocks sit flat against each other.

Then the detail I have been telling clients about for years: silk scarves, worked into the hem of a trouser and the neckline of a dress. I always say to invest in vintage silk twillys because they keep appreciating. Loewe just made the argument on a runway.

On the feet, strappy sandals hung with charm-bracelet jewelry and worn over colored tights, kitten mules with cutouts, and slingbacks with oversize bows. In the hand, the Puzzle in a new Featherweight East-West shape and the Amazona 180 in soft, relaxed leather.

Shop the echo: a leather bomber, a silk scarf to tie at the hem, a charm sandal.

The runway confirms it. The street called it first.

Miu Miu

Here and Now, on a purple court.

As a former Miu Miu girl, I can say it: Miuccia never misses a beat. The layers, the nineties edge, the sweetest little minis. It is the signature silhouette of the house, and she still wears it better than anyone copying her.

She moved the show up two days this season, to Sunday, October 4, and turned the Palais d'Iéna into a sports court: a purple floor, thick white lines, bleachers for seats. The collection was called "Here and Now." Mixing sport with sophistication has always been in her work, she said afterward, but she has never taken it this far.

The cast came with ties to dance. Jamie Bell, Billy Elliot himself, walked. So did Ella Bleu Travolta. Olivia Colman made her runway debut in a black leather blazer and matching skirt, alongside Emma Corrin, Noah Jupe, Gigi Hadid and Liu Wen.

Now the layers. Sports bras covered in crystals under track jackets. Swim bottoms, a warm-up jacket and a boyish check blazer in a single look. Joggers with tailoring and leather flip-flops. A Prince of Wales check blazer over a tartan skirt. Lace-front jeans made from upcycled vintage Wranglers, and a new round of New Balance sneakers. Everything a little crumpled on purpose, in tangerine and royal purple.

And the skirts. Pouf minis and shrunken, jeweled silk minidresses carry the house signature, next to pleated kilts slung low on the hips and embellished skirts cut to the knee. Polka-dot halter tops were tied on like silk scarves, so there is the scarf again. Gigi Hadid wore the whole thesis in one look: a grey crop top, a glittering midi skirt and New Balance x Miu Miu sneakers. Emma Corrin took the other side of it in a worn-in brown leather jacket, a printed shirt and white micro shorts.

• The embellished skirt is daywear now. Wear it with a sneaker and a small top.
• Layer sport under tailoring: a bra top, a track jacket, then the blazer.
• Mix your checks. Blazer in one, skirt in another.
• The mini is the house signature. The early ones are waiting in the archive.

Shop the echo: a sequin midi skirt, a check blazer, a retro running sneaker, a pleated mini skirt.

Dior

Light enough to float.

Jonathan Anderson brought Dior back to the Bassin Octogonal in the Tuileries on September 29, the same site as last season, this time with a fine mist rolling over the water. The clothes followed the set. He took the shapes he has already established at the house, the cropped Bar jacket, the asymmetric gathered skirt, the dropped-waist dress, and remade them in silk mousseline, Chantilly lace and translucent gauze. Hems moved in the breeze.

The details came from the garden: dangling pearls, petal earrings, floral scarves, buttons shaped like angel's trumpet flowers, and clogs made for someone who actually gardens. It is adornment again, and the scarf again. When two houses as different as Dior and Loewe land on the same accessory in the same week, that is a forecast.

• A cropped jacket over something sheer. Structure on top, air underneath.
• One botanical detail: a petal earring, a floral scarf, a pearl that swings.
• The Bar jacket is the investment. Find it in the archive.

Shop the echo: a sheer chiffon dress, a petal earring, a floral silk scarf.

Saint Laurent

Ten years, in gold.

That same night, Anthony Vaccarello marked ten years at Saint Laurent with the Eiffel Tower lit up behind the runway and an enormous chandelier above it. The collection looked cast in metal. Brocade suits, lamé, voluminous jackets in crinkled reflective fabric, and bronzed guipure lace with skin showing through. Then, for the finale, he dropped the gold for a run of black gowns in velvet and gauze.

The whole week has talked about whether this was his last show. Nothing has been announced, so I will leave the rumor where it is. What I will say is that it played like a closing argument, and the argument was evening. Gold after dark, black to finish.

• One gold piece for night: a brocade jacket or a lamé blouse, with black everything else.
• Lace in bronze instead of black.
• Vaccarello-era Saint Laurent is about to be a chapter. Buy the tailoring accordingly.

Shop the echo: a gold brocade jacket, a black velvet gown.

Chloé

Eyelet season.

Chemena Kamali called her October 1 collection "Obsession," and after last season's plaids and wool she went light. One fabric ran through it: eyelet, in dresses, skirt sets and puff-sleeve tops, in a soft pastel palette. A whole passage of the show went to sweeping, cape-like trench coats with funnel necks flipped up.

The casting made the headlines. Apple Martin, 22, made her runway debut, with Claudia Schiffer, Alexa Chung, Cynthia Erivo and Emma Mackey watching from the front row.

• The eyelet dress replaces the lace-trim dress.
• Pastels over brights. Loewe said it too.
• A trench with volume and a high collar, worn as the whole outfit.

Shop the echo: a white eyelet dress, a cape trench.

The Debuts

Courrèges and Carven start over.

Two houses introduced new designers this week, and both are worth watching early, before the prices and the waitlists catch up.

At Courrèges on September 30, Drew Henry showed his first collection. He trained at Central Saint Martins and worked at Phoebe Philo's Céline, JW Anderson, Phoebe Philo's own label and Burberry before taking the job in March. His Courrèges is sleek and futuristic, as it should be, but with real color and more daywear: suits in bold shades with frayed edges and thick leather belts left hanging open, monochrome leather patchwork including a cream coat, high-waisted trousers with an off-center snap closure, and short A-line dresses that nod to the house's mod beginnings.

At Carven on October 1, Kai Nesselrath made his debut after years at Chanel under Karl Lagerfeld and a decade at Saint Laurent beside Vaccarello. He went deep into Madame Carven's archive and came out with clothes that feel deliberately a little undone, with hints of the late fifties and sixties. Cotton and silk Panama dresses, skirts and trousers. Backless maxi dresses. And a blue cotton maxi near the end, draped like a sheet pinned in place, that only works if the person cutting it knows exactly what they are doing.

• The colored suit, belted and left open.
• The backless maxi for summer evenings.
• First collections become the reference point. These are the ones collectors go back for.

Shop the echo: a bold-color suit, a backless cotton maxi dress.

Chanel

Still to come: Monday at nightfall.

Matthieu Blazy shows his second spring ready-to-wear collection for Chanel on Monday, October 5, at 8 p.m. in Paris, again at nightfall. A year ago he debuted under glowing planets at the Grand Palais. In April he took cruise to Biarritz, with stripes, seashell earrings and suits reproduced from archive drawings, and the house has already named Deauville for the next one. He keeps going back to where Gabrielle Chanel started.

So here is what I am watching for: how far into the archive he goes, what he does with the suit, and which small adornment ends up on every editor by March. I will update this edit once the show walks.

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The Forecast

What the street and the runway agreed on.

• Adornment, half hidden. Beads at The Row, charms on the shoes at Loewe, pearls and petal earrings at Dior, crystals at Miu Miu. Jewelry goes on everything and under everything.
• The scarf as hardware. At the hem and the neckline at Loewe, in florals at Dior, tied on as a top at Miu Miu.
• Narrow tailoring. Cigarette trousers and a cinched jacket replace the oversized suit.
• Sheer and soft. Dior's gauze and lace, Chloé's eyelet, pastels at Chloé and Loewe.
• Gold after dark. Saint Laurent made the case in brocade and lamé.
• Flats with everything. Flip-flops, slides, garden clogs and running sneakers, even under sequins.
• Vintage in the mix. The best looks outside the shows had a past.

The Finishing Touch

Start with a vintage silk twilly. Tie it into a top, loop it on a bag as a charm, or layer it as a choker into your chain stack with an Hermès mini horsebit or a Chanel CC. Source the vintage one to keep, and wear this season's every day.

Paris will be history by Wednesday. The pieces are what you keep.

◆ ◆ ◆Worth keeping forever.